2/23/98
I've been asked by a colleague what if anything I knew about the problem
of fungi (presumably) that can grow on and etch the front lens of
microscope objective lenses, making them useless for any work.
This problem may be correlated with tropical or near-tropical
environmental conditions.
I couldn't help him at all with any substantive information, but I'll bet
this newsgroup can provide answers or leads.
Any help would be appreciated.
TIA,
M. Nesson--
_______________________________________________________________________
Michael Nesson, Ph.D. Department of Biochemistry & Biophysics
2011 Ag&LS, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR 97331-7305
(541)737-5245 FAX:(541)737-0481 nessonm@ucs.orst.edu
Wellington , New Zealand can hardly be called tropical. We experienced
this problem on a surgical microscope .The problem appeared over
winter/early spring when the weather was damp but hardly tropical.
Luckily we caught the problem before any permenant damage was done. The
microscope which is not used to often is now stored in a dry atmosphere
and inspected regularly as once the problem has occurred it is far more
likely to reoccur (residual spores etc)
Peter Smith
AgResearch
Upper Hutt
New Zealand
Might it not be a devitrification of the glass?
I worked several years ago with a student in Art Conservation from the
nearby Winterthur museum. Her specialty was lockets which contained
pictures behind glass. The glass in these often had the exact problem you
describe. Although the stuff on the surface of the glass looked like a
growth of some kind, it was actually a gel of glass material in water. She
told me this is common knowledge in her field, and is in all the
textbooks. One giveaway that this is something done by the glass is that
it only happens to flint glass, not to crown. You'd think a fungus would
do it the other way around; what would preferentially grow on a material
that is 10 or more percent lead?
Is there a newsgroup or mailing list for optical repair to which we
could submit this question? If there is no fungus, then fumigation won't
help, and dessication is the only preventative.
Robert Wieland wieland@me.udel.edu
Electron Microscope Specialist University of Delaware
eliminate charging). Sometimes, the devitrified areas grow radially from a
point of nucleation. In any case, there is crystallization of the glass that
will appear different from organic growth. Devitrification is a very slow
process at room temperature which would be a reason to expect to find it only
on very old optics.
Jeff Hurd
hurdj@us.ibm.com
on the surface of a diamond knife. As the fungus approached the sharp edge
of the knife, that portion was ruined. The precipitating cause seemed to
be a knife storage box which was air tight, and our own carelessness. If
the knife was placed into the box wet, and the box shut before the knife
had dried, the fungus grew. Over time, the fungus eventually attacked the
entire knife surface, despite efforts to dry the knife after each use.
David Hall
Department of Neuroscience
1410 Pelham Parkway
Albert Einstein College of Medicine
Bronx, NY 10461
phone (718) 430-2195 FAX (718) 430-8821
growing inside of presumably sealed microscope components. In both
instances, the fungus grew inside of the prism/beam splitting chamber of
a Leica OrthoPlan II. The front-mirrored surfaces were covered with the
fungus which then became visible when using the microscope. Besides being
annoying, it obscured fine detail. The entire assembly had to be sent back
to Germany for cleaning. Leica was most gracious about doing this gratis
but now, three years later, the fungus is back. Apparently, it grows on the
front surface mirrors which must be replaced.
I have heard that in the tropics, optics (binoculars, or "sealed" optical
systems) should be stored in a desiccated environment when not actually
being used. Otherwise, fungi get into the "sealed" lens components, grow
and etch the glass surfaces or even grow on the lens cement until they
completely fill the optics.
My own thinking on this matter would be to periodically "gas" the sensitive
components using formaldehyde gas. For example, remove the optics, place in
a zip-lock bag with some formalin (38% formaldehyde) and allow gas to
permeate the optics. HOWEVER, we need to have some input from microscope
manufacturers since the formaldehyde may affect some components inside the
lenses. On the other hand, left alone, the lenses will surely be ruined by
the fungi.
####################################################################
John J. Bozzola, Ph.D., Director
Center for Electron Microscopy
Neckers Building, Room 146 - B Wing
Southern Illinois University
Carbondale, IL 62901
U.S.A.
Phone: 618-453-3730
Fax: 618-453-2665
Email: bozzola@siu.edu
Web: http://www.siu.edu/departments/shops/cem.html
affected glass optics dry prevents spread of the fungus, but it gets going
again if rehydrated, I think.
My experiences with containers and humidity has led me to a number of
conclusions. First, zipper-type plastic bags don't really keep out
moisture all that well for very long. Don't rely on them. And I'd bet
the formaldehyde vapors would permeate OUT of the bag, as well, so don't
do this at home. I am ready to stand corrected, of course.
Secondly, Parafilm does an amazing job of sealing things up. It took me a
long time to figure out that Parafilm wrapped around the lid of any old
jar will keep indicator dessicant blue for years. I trust it, now. My
camera equipment is in a peanut butter jar with dessicant and Parafilmed.
(Anyone remember my rant about peanut butter jars for storage a year or so
ago?)
Next, of all the commercial sealable food storage containers out there, I
have found Tupperware brand to be the best at sealing out humidity. I
have had a couple of hilarious Tupperware parties for scientists where the
poor salesperson was bewildered by our refusal to play the games, and our
discussion of pathology and oceanography. It's easier to go to the local
supermarket for Rubbermaid or equal brand, but they just don't do the job.
And something I found out the *hard* way - Drierite (CaSO4) can be
corrosive, so we have switched to silica gel.
We sometimes put a "head" of N2 gas before sealing things.
My $.04 (twice as long as it should be).
Tina
http://www.pbrc.hawaii.edu/bemf/microangela
****************************************************************************
* Tina (Weatherby) Carvalho * tina@pbrc.hawaii.edu *
* Biological Electron Microscope Facility * (808) 956-6251 *
* University of Hawaii at Manoa * http://www.pbrc.hawaii.edu/bemf*
it happens. Photographers working in humid, tropical conditions (which
pretty much typified the southern Illinois summer climate when I lived
there) often describe this problem. I see no reason why the same problem
wouldn't occur on microscope optics.
I eventually had to replace lens elements in a high-priced macro lens.
Other than trying to keep the lenses in a low-humidity environment (i.e.,
storing in containers with silica gels), I'm not personally aware of any
preventative for fungus growing on lens surfaces or lens coatings. Nor,
unfortunately, am I aware of any cheap fixes.
Maybe some other people have better solutions.
Randy Tindall
Electron Microscope Laboratory
Box 3EML
New Mexico State University
Las Cruces, NM 88003
rtindell@nmsu (work)
nrtindall@zianet.com (home)
make up a lens. In my experience it is incurable,(Anyone please correcr me
if there is now something that I don't know about). In my 25+ years in the
humid tropics I never had the fungi problem while other people around me
did. I have always attributed this to the fact that I never covered my
microscope, prefering to let the air circulate around it. I know that it is
considered sacrilage not to cover your microscope but my microscopes have
certainly outlasted numerous others and never had the dreaded fungi.
Christine Lee,
Senior Scientific Officer,
Veterinary Pathology,
University of Queensland.
C.Lee@mailbox.uq.edu.au
researched that topic. Most of the microscopes are kept in airconditioning
and then no precautions are required but for the Coral Sea island research
station they enclose a teaspoon of paraformaldehyde powder in a small paper
bag within the microscope case. This protects the microscope for a year or
two and apparently has no ill effect on lenses and the mechanical parts.
Another alternative are the "plug-in and forget" new desiccating cabinets.
They keep relative humidity below 20%; a true innovation. I must declare an
interest: ProSciTech sells these.
Cheers
Jim Darley
ProSciTech Microscopy PLUS
PO Box 111, Thuringowa QLD 4817 Australia
Phone +61 7 4774 0370 Fax: +61 7 4789 2313
Great microscopy catalogue, 500 Links, MSDS, User Notes
**************************** www.proscitech.com.au ***
But does anyone know the name of this type of fungus?
What type of glass does it grow on and what component of the glass is so
attractive to it?
Before my business became overwhelmingly active I used to restore old
optical systems for historical exhibition.
I no longer have time for that now but after years of seeing great optics
ruined by this fungus I am glad others have raised this topic.
Hopefully I'll learn more about it.
Dan
dan@bioptechs.com
also seen often growing on tile grout in bathrooms. My best guess
it is using carbon in the coatings or cements, or thin oil films that
form from the air.
Russ
RZS@plantpath.wisc.edu
The tips on prevention already discussed do go a long way in minimising the risks. Some coatings seem to be better in this regard than others. Also, to complicate matters more, there are variations in the quality of the coatings from scope to scope.
Roger
Roger Wallis
General Manager
Optiscan P/L Confocal Microscopy
PO Box 1066
Mt. Waverley MDC
Victoria 3149 Australia
Tel: (61) 3-9562-7741
Fax: (61) 3-9562-7742
e-mail: rogerw@optiscan.com.au
URL: http://www.optiscan.com.au