8-6-98
down. We have an open house coming up and I would like to have a
micrograph from a CD for show and tell. Could someone tell me the
sample prep steps to do this? I've never done it before.
-Scott Walck
Scott D. Walck, Ph.D.
PPG Industries, Inc.
Guys Run Rd. (packages)
P.O. Box 11472 (letters)
Pittsburgh, PA 15238-0472
Walck@PPG.com
(412) 820-8651 (office)
(412) 820-8161 (fax)
records for the moment, but I think it went like this. The problem was
that the dimples are not at the top of the CD, but buried inside with a
metallic layer to reflect. As memory serves me, what we did was to cut
out a small area of the CD, and then bed it shiny side down on some rapid
cure Araldite. After this hardened, one could then flick off the piece of
CD, leaving the shiny layer on the Araldite, and the dimples appeared as
troughs in the surface that was exposed. This was then sputter coated
with gold in the usual way, and examined under SEM with the direction of
the grooves or dimple at the "magic angle" (put in flat, rotate so the
the grooves run at 45^ to x and y, and then tilt z by 54^. I think one
could also look at the remaining metallized area on the Aralidite, again
gold coating.
There may be inaccuracies after such a long time of recall, but I think
this will give you a general principle to work on.
Good hunting!
+------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| Robert H.Olley Phone: |
| J.J.Thomson Physical Laboratory {direct line +44 (0) 118 9318572 |
| University of Reading {University internal extension 7867 |
| Whiteknights Fax +44 (0) 118 9750203 |
| Reading RG6 6AF Email: R.H.Olley@reading.ac.uk |
| England URL: http://www.reading.ac.uk/~spsolley |
I took a damaged writable cd and cut a wedge out,
plastic and all. The foil peels off easily. I
then mounted it on a stub with double sided carbon
tab.
The long line is called an "atip". This is
the tract the lases follows. Then there are
"lands" and "pits". These are the spaces(lands)
between the laser burns(pits). Hope this helps.
Greg R
greg@umic.sunysb.edu
I did this years ago, and as I recall, I cut a one centimeter square from
the CD, put it in tri-chorethane overnight to dissolve the plastic, then
fished out the very thin Al foil that was released and put it on a shiny
graphite stub. It wrinkles horribly and the little grooves are hard to see
until you reach 10,000X mag, but it is possible. This is for ressed CD's,
the CD-R's you make yourself are completely different.
Mary Mager
mager@interchg.ubc.ca
previously I produced SEM samples of CD's to evaluate the etching or
burning from the laser involved in the writing process.
simple steps (as long as you understand the CD will be destroyed) immerse
the CD in liquid nitrogen (other cryo-liquids will probably work also) for
approx. 30-60 sec. You will hear it start to crack. Remove the CD with
tongs, slap it down onto a hard surface (lab bench, desk) or strike it
while lying on the hard surface with a hammer. The plastic/metal interface
will sheer, leaving a conductive metal to examine under the SEM.
I usually used carbon sticky tabs to mount, no sputtering was necessary.
Good Luck
-Mike
MIKE ROCK
merock@du.edu
I have a request for a micrograph of the pits and lands on a music CD. I
thought this would be fun and simple but we aren't having any luck imaging
anything (actually it was so reflective we imaged the detector!:-)
Here's what we've done:
We cut up a CD - using a piece of it close to the center hole (so we knew
it had something on it to see). The piece was mounted (lower surface up) on
a stub using a carbon sticky tab and silver paste. The sample was sputter
coated for 2 minutes (some for 3) and scoped. The first time we viewed it
we didn't coat it (see paragraph one for details).
Do we need a solvent to munch awhile on the surface layer of the CD?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
It was a Christmas music CD so maybe that is the problem :-).
beth
**************************************
Beth Richardson
EM Lab Coordinator
Botany Department
University of Georgia
Athens, GA 30602
Phone - (706) 542-1790
FAX - (706) 542-1805
Email - beth@dogwood.botany.uga.edu
I have done this in the past using a rewritable CD where the
reflective coating can be readily stripped using tape. Using a normal
CD I think we had to physically rip it apart, ( I seem to remember it
was quite tough ), a good source for this is the freebies that you
find on computer mags.
John
John Findlay
Science Faculty EM Facility.
Edinburgh University.
Daniel Rutherford Bldg.
Kings Buildings.
Edinburgh EH9 3JH.
tel. 0131-650-5344
fax. 0131-650-6563
John.Findlay@ed.ac.uk
Greetings,
The pits and lands on a CD are <<inside>> the plastic of the CD, so you
need to dissolve it with some sort of solvent (I believe I used
methanol,
but can't recall for sure). The correct organic solvent will make the
plastic
disappear entirely, not just craze it and turn it cloudy. I think there
may
be several types of plastic used as the base, because I used toluene a
number
of years ago the first time I tried this, and it didn't work on the CD I
used a few
months ago. Anyway, use a couple of fresh changes until the foil is
floating free,
then mount it on a stub and take a look. You might need to mount both
sides of a single
piece so that you are sure you have the side with the pits. If you've
gotten all the plastic
off, you might get away without coating, but I coated mine anyway.
You can see an example of the pits and lands at
http://www.mta.ca/~jehrman/cd.htm
BTW, the CD I used is a Microsoft(TM) Office demo CD, so any flaws
are Bill Gate's fault, not mine!
Cheers,
Jim
--
James M. Ehrman
Digital Microscopy Facility
Mount Allison University
Sackville, NB E4L 1G7
CANADA
phone: 506-364-2519
fax: 506-364-2505
email: jehrman@mta.ca
mass produced CD the pits are in the aluminum layer which is under
a plastic layer. Electron imaging won't stand a chance unles the
plastic is removed. BTW... CD-Rs are quite different - use a dye
rather than Al film.
Woody
McDermott Technology
me: http://www.geocities.com/capecanaveral/3722
Please pardon the commercials!
What are the lateral and Z dimensions of these structures? There have been a number of other techniques,including SWLI (Scanning White Light Interferometry) used to image these structures. I have access to a system which can do that, if it would be helpful.
Best regards,
Barbara Foster
mme@map.com
This simple method utilizes the coefficient of thermal expansion for
separation of materials of differing densities. CDs are made up of a
metallic core (usually aluminum or gold) surrounded by a plastic layer on
either side. Other methods include dissolving the plastic with various
solvents, or by removing the metal layer by etching techniques. Both may
work fine, I have tried neither. This protocol uses liquid nitrogen to
cool the sample (CD) to a point where the materials separate, and has
proved successful with both gold and aluminum CDs.
Using tongues immerse the CD in the liquid nitrogen, after 15-30 seconds
the CD will sound as if it is cracking. After 30- 60 seconds remove the
CD from the liquid nitrogen.
Place the frozen CD on a firm surface and strike it with a hammer (wear
safety glasses), the CD will shatter. Alternatively you may wish to slap
the frozen CD down against the bench top (results of the two techniques
are similar), shearing between the plastic and metal interface. The metal
will easily pull away from the surface of the plastic if still in contact.
Mount the metallic layer, which contains the information tracks ("pits"
and "lands") on a aluminum stub using double stick "conductive" carbon
tape or tabs. Sputter coating is usually not necessary. Examination with
the SEM is fairly routine at this point (5-15 kV).
MIKE ROCK
merock@du.edu
The pits and lands on a CD are <<inside>> the plastic of the CD, so you
need to dissolve it with some sort of solvent (I believe I used
methanol,
but can't recall for sure). The correct organic solvent will make the
plastic
disappear entirely, not just craze it and turn it cloudy. I think there
may
be several types of plastic used as the base, because I used toluene a
number
of years ago the first time I tried this, and it didn't work on the CD I
used a few months ago. Anyway, use a couple of fresh changes until the
foil is
floating free, then mount it on a stub and take a look. You might need
to mount both
sides of a single piece so that you are sure you have the side with the
pits. If you've
gotten all the plastic off, you might get away without coating, but I
coated mine anyway.
You can see an example of the pits and lands at
http://www.mta.ca/~jehrman/cd.htm
BTW, the CD I used is a Microsoft(TM) Office demo CD, so any flaws
are Bill Gate's fault, not mine!
Cheers,
Jim
James M. Ehrman
Digital Microscopy Facility
Mount Allison University
Sackville, NB E4L 1G7
CANADA
phone: 506-364-2519
fax: 506-364-2505
email: jehrman@mta.ca
fine was to simply scratch the back surface with a knife and take some
good scotch tape and press on the back over the scratch with the tape.
When it has been pressed onto the back with a lot of pressure, simply
peel it off. You'll see the pattern transferred to the tape. Since
this layer is conductive, there is no need to coat it as long as you
have a good conductive path from that surface to the support stub. You
can use carbon paint.
If you have the conductive carbon double sticky pads, they work well
also.
-Scott Walck
Scott D. Walck, Ph.D.
PPG Industries, Inc.
Guys Run Rd. (packages)
P.O. Box 11472 (letters)
Pittsburgh, PA 15238-0472
Walck@PPG.com
(412) 820-8651 (office)
(412) 820-8161 (fax)